Older plants that have, over the years, produced a large number of pseudobulbs, will have several that are leafless. These may not be dead, and if they are still plump and green they will have some life left in them. At present they are supporting the newer, leafed pseudobulbs, passing on their stored food supply to the younger part of the plant. However, if there are more pseudobulbs out of leaf than in leaf, they will become a drain on the main plant and need to be removed. Where there is more than one new growth, it may be possible to separate the plant into two or more divisions, provided each has at least one new growth. To maintain flowering, a division should have at least three pseudobulbs in leaf with Jne new growth. With this in mind, -mu can separate your plant into as many divisions as it is safe to do so.

Your plant may already be growing more out of its pot than in, and there may be a number of aerial roots that have not entered the compost (growing medium). Remove the plant from its pot and take away all the old compost and any surplus backbulbs. The plant is now ready to be mounted onto the bark. Have ready a supply of material to place around the plant for moisture retention. This can be a mixture of sphagnum moss and coconut fibre, both of which are available from specialist nurseries.

Select a piece of cork bark, or similar wood, of a size to accommodate the plant, allowing room for growth. Insert a length of wire to make a hook in the top of the bark. You will also require a length of thin, plastic-coated wire and a pair of small pliers. Place a wad of the supporting moss and fibre around the base of the plant, without covering the pseudobulbs, and place another wad directly on the hark. On top of this, place your plant with the new growths at the top, facing towards the bark. If the plant has a downward-growing habit, such as Brassavola nodosa, reverse it.

Position it so that the older pseudobulbs are against one side of the pot, allowing space for the plant to grow towards the other edge. If you are potting a phalaenopsis or similar monopodial type, place the plant at the centre of the pot, bearing in mind that it will grow upwards rather than outwards. Hold the plant, and pour in the compost (growing medium) all round, firming it down until the pot is full.

In a few weeks, you will be died with new growth and roots. It some species, such as Oncidiu ni ilkirami, a dense mat of roots will be reduced that will creep over the bark and hang down well below. You need a slab of tree fern or a piece of cork bark (with a wire hook), a sphagnum moss and coconut fibre, 1 plastic-coated garden wire, a pair ecateurs (pruners), and a pair of pliers. Cut a length of the plastic-coated wire i. using the pliers, wire the sphagnum ss and coconut fibre firmly to the tree n or piece of cork bark.

Place plant to one side of the pot, with the adest pseudobulbs at the back and the growths facing forward. Crock the ease of the new pot and place sufficient mmpost (growing medium) on top so that when you insert the plant, the base al the new growth will be level with, or nst below, the rim of the pot. Fill in with artnpost – tucking some under and mound the roots to ensure that there are a, open spaces – until the plant is firmly a position and the compost finishes -Mow the pot rim. This will ensure that when you water the plant the compost la not be washed over the rim.

Repotting and dividing involves completely repotting orchid, stripping out the old compost growing medium), discarding any dead and removing surplus leafless or pseudobulbs. It can be used for nng up large plants, so that they can often be returned to the same size of pot. You can separate the plant into two or more divisions, provided each has at least re new growth.

Water the plants after a few days, having allowed time for damaged roots and cut ends to heal partially before being wetted. Careful watering will be required for a while until you can be sure that new roots have started to grow from the new growth. When this happens, normal watering and feeding can resume. After repotting, expect your plants to shrivel slightly or shed some foliage until the new roots grow. ‘Ibis is the reason why it is best to repot in the spring, just prior to the formation of the new roots. Repotting a plant at the wrong time can cause stress until the new roots take over from those severed during repotting. After about six weeks, tap out one plant, and check the new roots. You will be surprised at the progress of new white roots extending through the compost (growing medium). If this is not the case, and the plant continues to shrivel, it may be late in growing and will benefit from being placed in a propagator, where a little extra warmth will start it growing.